Bobby Flay meets some of his biggest fans from western Massachusetts.
After reading this post on AnnArbor.com yesterday (“Dear Bobby Flay, please stop”) I had to laugh. I like Bobby Flay, and I enjoy the “Throwdown” series where he sneak-attacks and challenges hometown chefs known for their iconic recipes. I like it better when the hometown people prevail, which they seem to about 90% of the time.
Flay is a brand by himself, opening restaurants all over the United States (two now in Connecticut at Mohegan Sun – Bobby’s Burger Palace and Bar Americain.) And when chef/personalities verge on overexposure, criticism builds. So I wasn’t surprised to see this blogger, John Moors, ripping on several Food Network stars. He put Flay on blast for his partiality to Southwestern ingredients. “Really Bobby? You’re going to add green chiles to this recipe? No way.”
Yes, Southwestern flavor is Bobby’s thing. But if you’ve watched enough “Throwdown” episodes, you’ll sometimes marvel at what foods Bobby chooses to “spice” up. Competing against a Rockland, Maine cafe owner famous for her lobster club sandwich, Flay concocted his own version with saffron mayonnaise, crispy serrano ham and watercress. If you’ve ever visited that area of Maine – where my grandparents once owned a summer home – you’ll know that A.) the lobster is so incredibly fresh and delicious that it hardly needs clarified butter) and B.) fancy Southwestern food probably won’t impress or entice your average coastal Mainer, ayuh. Come on, dude. Definitely rolled my eyes during this episode.
I sent the link to my foodie friends Kat and Ben, some of the biggest Flay fans I know. They met him at the Mohegan Sun WineFest at the end of January, where Bobby signed Ben’s bottle of ancho chile powder and he cradled it like a baby on the ride home to Springfield. Needless to say, Ben was not impressed by this blogger’s rant and made a point to comment.
This got me thinking about overexposure. Obviously, the Food Network is a massive moneymaking machine, and people are buying these chefs’ cookbooks/overpriced Kohl’s kitchen equipment/tickets to personal appearances. But at what point is it too much? The Rachael Ray backlash came fast and furious, with critics slamming her cutesy kitchen abbreviations and exclamations (and let’s not forget those creepy Maxim photos.) I truly love Guy Fieri and “Man v. Food” host Adam Richman, just because they seem like genuinely awesome guys you could invite to your house party. But I’m sure they have their haters, too.
So: love them, or hate them? Do you have a favorite food personality?
Leeanne Griffin is a freelance writer and food enthusiast.
I agree 100% that lobster is delicious on its own, and that it doesn’t need to be doctored up. I think there are many foods that are like that. I know a lot of purists who cook their steak medium-rare, a little salt and pepper, and they wouldn’t have it any other way. But in regards to the Throwdown episode, it just doesn’t make for good TV if he brought hot dog buns and some mayonnaise and fresh lobster and issued a challenge.
I don’t like restaurants or chefs who do the same exact thing as the other ones. Where is the creativity? My buddies dad can’t get a loan for an authentic wood-smoked BBQ restaurant but if he told the bank it was for another run of the mill, undistinguishable pizza joint than I think he’d probably get that loan. That really bothers me. Don’t get me wrong, I’d definitely eat that ladies lobster club, but Flay’s was way more appealing to me. I think he made a chipotle brioche bread to go with it. I trust that the flavors worked, that it had a good depth of flavor and texture as well. I appreciate that uncommon twist on a dish that is usually thought of only one way and wish more people/chefs/restaurants had more of a sack to be creative and put their flair on something. I think that’s why I love that Blaque Sushi joint so much – there’s a million lobster joints in Maine, so instead of following the herd they do a sushi place smack dab in the middle of one of the biggest tourist spots. And that double-baked lobster roll is now the main attraction for me when we go up there, because I can only get it there, whereas I could drive down to Max Fish and get a steamed lobster that tastes just the same as one from Perkins Cove. That’s just me though.
As far as FN personalities, I first want to defend the Neely’s because they get crapped on a lot. I love those guys. They genuinely enjoy cooking with each other, they have a good sense of humor, and I like their southern style.
I have my allegiance to Flay, but I also really like Alton Brown. The Neelys are cool with me, as is Guy, Tyler Florence. I’m indifferent on most everyone else because their niche shows don’t have any bearing on me. Can’t stand Anne Burrell for one minute – she’s just so weird to me, going Tourette’s on her food every five minutes.
Ben, you have very good points. (as always!) I guess I was thinking of authenticity in that lobster-club sandwich situation. The judges would certainly know from one bite which sandwich was Bobby’s and which was the local woman’s.
that really sucks about your friend’s father. I bet the situation would be reversed in another area of the country, like the South. In New England, you can throw a rock and hit ten pizza places. Barbecue is harder to find, as you know well.
as soon as you mentioned Black, I started drooling. Is it July yet??
Giada De Laurentiis is one of my favorite for TV food stars. Fun personality. I like Bobby Flay too. Makes me laugh a little. I have been to Bobby Flays at Mohegan Sun and I had the rack of pork. It was phenomenal. Pork is a dish that can dry out fast and his dish was perfect. The dish had an apple butter sour mash sauce and it complimented the pork so well. I can’t wait to get back there.