Welcome to my latest food fixation. If you’re looking for smoked salmon in your local grocery store anytime soon, sorry. I ate all of it.

It all started when we sought out a hearty breakfast for our first day of wine tasting in Sonoma last September, and I opted for the hotel’s horribly overpriced bagel-and-lox plate in an attempt to avoid a redux of our 2010 trip. [In a nutshell: I couldn't drink Zinfandel for more than a year after a hazy - and later Technicolor - afternoon. Let that be a lesson to you. Pace yourself in wine country, kids. And always eat first.]

Four months and weekly packages of salmon, three tubs of cream cheese, a whole jar of capers and countless red onions later, that craving is still stubborn. So, as we enjoyed a cozy Friday-night dinner at Millwright’s Tavern, my eye went right to the smoked salmon rillettes.

Chef Tyler Anderson and his kitchen have elevated the country-style spread with a little innovation – the pot of smoked fish was crowned with a weightless crème fraîche and a scattering of “everything bagel” spice. Four fingers of buttered, toasted bread weren’t enough for the serving, but that didn’t stop us from clearing out the little jar with our forks.

And somehow, the focal point of Millwright’s mill-building setting – the dramatic waterfall – is even more breathtaking when it’s half-frozen.

Millwright’s, 77 West Street, Simsbury. 860-651-5500, millwrightsrestaurant.com.